2007 UPDATE: MIKE HAS TRADED IN NOLHI FOR DESTINY. HE IS NOW TRAVELLING FROM ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA THROUGH PANAMA TO HAWAII AND BACK TO GIG HARBOR, WA. HE DEPARTED APRIL 5, 2007.

LINK HERE FOR HIS NEW LOG.

     
link here to see full travel maps (maps updated thru 9 Aug)    
     

12 AUG 04 -- ARRIVAL HOME TO GIG HARBOR!

Last email Friday Harbor 8/09/04.
 
Departed Friday Harbor 8/09 at 1500.  Following wind lasted less than an hour and then back to diesel for the rest of the leg.  Arrived at Admiralty Inlet early and against the ebbing tide which made or slow going.  Evaluated the options and decided to go for Port Ludlow that evening.  I do love being out on the water at night when everything is clear -- the feeling is very different.  Used the computer charts to pass the reef area and enter Port Ludlow.  Arrival was at 2300 and it was DARK. Drove to the far side of the harbor and anchored in 38 feet.  Some of the boats already there stood out very well while others were near invisible until nearly upon them.  Even on the NIGHT setting, the computer charts still too bright and negatively affects transition back and forth from screen to eye vision, so I used the entrance tarp to shield the computer.
 
Departed Port Ludlow about 0830 after refueling.  A pretty day and some light wind to make sailing available from Point-No-Point for a few hours then back to diesel for the rest of the leg.  Decided to spend the night in Gig Harbor since the Tacoma Narrows tide would be ebbing soon.  Arrived at 1830 and the Tides Tavern dock was packed so we ended up at the city dock.  Went to the Tides for a beer and dinner.
 
Gig Harbor.  The clear morning saw a thick layer of fog move in about 0800 and lift about 0930.  We departed at 0945 and were in and out of fog from just outside of Gig Harbor to the Carr Inlet entrance.  Landed at Murphy's dock at 1230.  Tom was out back building a swing.
 
At home, Boots came when I called him and meowed the rest of the day.  A shower was number one on my list.  Boots's fur was all over the house and had to be vacuumed.  I unloaded one truck load from the boat today and will go back for the heavy stuff tomorrow morning while it is still cool -- it was HOT today.  The rest of the night was spent getting caught up on the bills.
 
Scott: Photos will follow tomorrow for posting on your website.    
 
  ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

9 AUG 04

Last email sent from Port McNeill on 8/02. No email from Nanaimo due to late arrival and Sunday Internet access nil.
 
Shaw Pt on 8/03 located on Sunderland Channel.  Motored sailed from Pt McNeill to Fanny Island where wind available and tried to outrun rain--lost.  First time there and very interesting place -- I could picture a cabin on the point overlooking the bight.  Water very clear and deep with colorful starfish.
 
Quartz Bay on Sutil Channel on 8/04.  2200 arrival after traversing rapids areas and killing some time at Shoal Bay waiting for slack time.  Always a pleasant quiet stay here.  Arrival in near blackout conditions using computer charts worked well.  Occasional log floating by keeps you awake.  Rain that night.
 
Deep Bay located on Baynes Sound of Vancouver Island on 8/05 and 8/06. Weather forecast not encouraging so departed Quartz with the strategy of a sheltered anchorage for coming rain and wind.  Motor sailed all day from Quartz until Point Lazo where wind developed.  Good sailing for an hour or so then quits so back to diesel.  Traversing Lambert Channel a bit of a struggle against the tide and 27K wind on the nose with ground speed down to 3K at times with wave action coming off the Strait of Georgia.  NOLHI and I both got a salt bath.  Deep Bay not one of my favorite places -- happy to depart.
 
Nanaimo on 8/07 with 2130 arrival.  Some good sailing from about Chrome Island to Ballenas Islands when wind slacks and tide on the verge of switching. All close hauled back and forth across track and a beautiful day.  Saturday night in Nanaimo saw many folks walking about the waterfront on my arrival.  A shower was my first priority with very late dinner at the local waterfront bistro -- not good but the local folk singers entertaining.
 
Friday Harbor on 8/08 after a hot day and dying wind just south of the Dodd Narrows.  When sailing, mostly downwind wing-on-wing.  2130 arrival and customs clearance with more questions than usual and two trips back to the boat for details.  While speaking to them a wake hit the dock and NOLHI was slammed into it about five times with waves pouring onto the dock -- no damage detected and happy I had extra fenders deployed on that side.
 
Today.  Expect to depart at 1500 with the tide and cross Strait of Juan de Fuca.  Anchor in either Port Townsend or hopefully Port Ludlow.  Expect to be home earliest as 8/10 late or then 8/11.
 
Scott:  I will send photos of last legs when I get home.
 
Cheers,         
 
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

click on images below to enlarge

3 AUG 2004

This is being sent from Port McNeill.  A following email will be sent to Scott with photos for the web site. (link to photos; section dated Aug 3)
 

Prince Rupert 7/26 last email sent.

Spicer Island

Spicer Island 7/27.  Located on Ogden Channel at Principe Channel.  A great day of sailing by surprise. Wind was present as on as we left Prince Rupert harbor and we sailed all the way with good speed; some of everything: close haul, broadreach, and downwind.  Computer wouldn't work on arrival with a yellow AC light flashing but luckily an easy entry in good weather.  Later, removed and replaced battery a couple times and it had 92% power left.  Has not happened since then and think it related to leaving it plugged in to boat power too long without engine running. One fishing boat seen after leaving PR vicinity.
 
Kooryet Bay 7/28.  Located on Banks Island in Principe Channel.  A day just the opposite from yesterday with all motor sailing.  No other boats seen today other than the cruise ship that came by after dark lit up like a city.  Coolest thing about this place is a mountain lake stream (big stream) that empties into the bay.  Rowed dinghy up into it and fish were jumping all over the place.  Also, so many eagles in one location.  First ducks I have seen as well as geese.  On rowing out of the stream, a flight of five geese in "V" formation and honking was just so cool but I couldn't get the camera out fast enough.  Very windy the next morning and had the MOST difficult time ever pulling up the anchor against a 10-20K wind -- put autopilot on auto heading, engine in slow speed, and then run to the bow and pull all 18 feet up.
 
Smithers Cove 7/29.  Located on Laredo Channel.  Easy entry to charming deep bowl with orange and purple starfish on the rock walls.  Had to anchor twice as first time too close to walls.
 
Storm Bay 7/30.  Located on Seaforth Channel few miles from Bella Bella.  We literally sailed down Laredo channel under mainsail alone above hull speed and up Meyers Narrows to Finlayson Channel and Seaforth Channel. After dark arrival to an easy entry.  Well worth it to see a beautiful sunset and the most fantastic near full moon rising I have ever seen -- is the moon bigger up north?
 

Goldstream Harbour

Goldstream Harbour 7/31.  Located on northern point of Calvert Island. Shaky entry to this harbor with mainsail up in a blow, sun in my eyes, and Douglas book coordinates that appeared all wrong against computer charts.  Once in the harbour anchor alone in recommended spot only to be awaken by the depth sound alarm at 0555 with a visible UNCHARTED rock rising from the 16 foot drop in tide that night.  Race to the bow in my bare feet and skivvies to pull in 20-30 feet of rode to get us away from it.  Douglas will hear about this one.
 
Hussar Point (Port Alexander) 8/01. Long day getting here.  Started early to drive down the Calvert Island coastline before crossing Queen Charlotte Sound.  Saw 1-2 whales just after leaving harbor.  Winds started rising just after entering the sound and carried us almost to Pine Island.  Mostly 8-12K before waning away at Pine Island forcing us to motor sail the rest of the way.  Swells continue to take the starch out of NOLHI's performance to the tune of . 5 to 1.5 if the driving wind too light.  Arrived late and anchor here due to many already in Port Alexander.  Used computer charts to maneuver between rocks and kelp beds to a good anchor site.  No sign of the largest eagle I have ever seen on the way north.
 
Port McNeill 8/02.  Day started with good sailing wind up to 20K forcing me to reef mainsail for first time this trip.  Then winds quit just past Port Hardy and we motorsail in PM.  Rush to place with god email capability to find out today is a Canadian holiday (BC Day).  So will try to send this in the morning before departing.  Weather turned to this evening.
 
Next email will be Nanaimo at the earliest as I will be passing through the back country rapids area before crossing Strait of Georgia.
 
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike


Ketchikan, Alaska


Dundas Island (whale spouting off)

27 July 2004

Departing at 1000 after refueling.  Heading south to Spicer Island. Group off Ogden Channel to give flexibility on following day course -- following the wind.

Cheers,
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

26 July 2004

I arrived back at Prince Rupert today at 1730. Called AOL to get screenname back online. I departed PR on 7/21 for Ketchikan. That night at Dundas Island. Night of 7/22 at Alava Bay due to worsening shaft noise and reduced speed. Nice place with Forest Service cabin in it but all anchoring is deep. After spending four hours realigning shaft at Alava Bay arrived
Ketchikan on 7/23 at 1630 Alaska time. Ran into that Bob from California again. More details later but problem seemed to take care of itself -- like your toothache gets better when you visit the dentist.

Departed Ketchikan on 7/25 for HOME. Night of 7/25 at Foggy Bay -- it would be interesting going into that place IN THE FOG since everything looks the same it is difficult to find the correct turn without GPS. NOLHI ran well today as not enough wind to sail -- she is her old self again -- maybe she just wants to go home.

I'm leaving with the tide at 1000 tomorrow for someplace south, haven't decided yet as I want to listen to weather first and find some wind. It would be nice to sail Hecate Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound to Port Hardy but unless I can find a crew 270 miles is a bit much in one jump but would shave off a few days. My target for returning remains within
the 60 days (August 21) and I'll cut corners where I can. Next major stop is Port McNeill with email.

Scott, will send limited photos only to you for the web site to avoid another AOL problem.

BOB: Computer charts are great but the computer has a limited time (about 2 hours) and dies even when connected to boat power -- very unhandy so I'm backing up with Garmin GPS and turning cxomputer on only occationally to check charts. Luckily, the boat will charge computer with engine running but takes about 3 hours running.

Buff/Dawn: Let the washer go and I'll take care of it when I get home. I have been waiting for it to die and it just happened to be while I was gone. Best put a sign on it that it is out of order so someone doesn't flood the place.

Buff: Congrads on the Puerto Rico thing. Let me know what the date is when you find out.

Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike


Prince Rupert


Pillsbury Guest House

22 July 2004
Autopilot arrived at 1150 today. Afternoon spent installing the electrics, different from Autohelm 1000. Departing immediately with 1715 tide with Dundas Island as destination for tonight. Winds favorable now
but expected to increase over next couple days. ETA Ketchikan on 22 or 23 depending on weather and winds.

Cheers,

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

18 July 2004
Yesterday was Cow Bay Days here on Cow Bay in Prince Rupert. A small town affair slanted toward the kids with balloons, horse carriage rides, face painting, one of those air filled jumping toys, and the like. Lots of folks milling around and everyone with smiles on their faces. Weather was just beautiful with sunny skies and temperature around 70F.

The attached photos (see photo page, photos marked 18JUL04) are mostly of the area yesterday during the celibration. I believe the only exceptions are the 55 meter (180 foot) yacht at the end of the dock whose stern shows Georgetown, C.I. (Caymay Islands)as her home port. Please note the helocopter parked on her stern. One of the crew says that the first mate is the pilot. This means that she will also have to haul JP4 fuel as well as her own diesel. Cow Bay Cafe, best dining in city with only 10 inside tables. Pillbury Guest House (red one), the first house built in town, and the city's Waterfront Park and railway museum.

I assisted the captain of "Fishes & Chicks" yesterday. He (Bob) and I have been running into each other the last few stops. He has a new Ocean Sport 30 (motor yacht) built on Orcus Island and on a shakedown cruise to Alaska. It has two 310HP Volvo diesels so he travels pretty fast when he gets going but somehow I have stayed ahead of him until now. It seems the design weight distribution was exceeded a bit when the change to larger engines and stern mounted RIB w/outboard added about 1200 pounds to her stern sending the bilge thruhulls below the waterline -- whenever he and friends stand on the stern deck it began to flood the engine compartment. I was skinny enough to get into the area cut the lines and add one way valves to the lines. More later.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

17 July 2004
I think the advertisement for FedEx says. "If it absolutely, positively has to get there on time, ship it FedEx"; I found out yesterday afternoon that doesn't apply in Canada. While it took obnly 24 hours for the autopilot replacement to get to Vancouver, it will take another four days to get to Prince Rupert. I spoke to the FedEx supervisor in Vancouver and it seems that despite the fact that floatplanes are flying in here everyday FedEx has their own "system" and they don't hand packages off to anyone to deliver. That will make it a Tuesday delivery and I
will have spent a week here. Yes, I'm pissed! Wait till Tom Hanks ("Castaway") hears about this!

I'll advise when I have more to report. I took some more photos of Prince Rupert and will forward those to you Scott at a later time today. I'll be spending my time doing all those little jobs on the boat that have been delayed for so long. Today is Cow Days here on Cow Bay (PR waterfront) and hopefully there will be some interesting things to report.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

15 JULY 2004
Prince Rupert technician unable to repair autopilot -- totally unreliable. Ordered new Raymarine ST1000 this morning from sailnet.com and due to arrive 24-48 hours by Fed Ex Intl delivery.

Will advise on departure date.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

Fitz Hugh Sound

Meyers Narrows

Principe Channel

click on images below to enlarge

14 July 2004

Prince Rupert BC

Arrived 7/13 at 1600, including 1.5 hours through the fog outside PR. Last email sent from Port McNeil on 7/06. Try to fill you in. Shearwater ISP would not allow access to AOL and was last storp of any civilization. This being sent from Prince Rupert library. Drizzle or rain every day since arriving at Pt McNeil until today. Since Pt McNeil stops at Port Alexander then across Queen Charlotte Sound to

Green Island Anchorage on Fitz Hugh Sound (pictured top left). Then Shearwater Marina (Bella Bella) for fuel, laundry, and shower. Then Meyers Narrows (pictured middle left) and unsheduled stop at Prior Island when autopilot broke and GPS lost satellite contact. After 45 minutes of no reliable position, no autopilot, and constant rain all day reteated to this island I later identified as Prior. It won't win any real estate prizes but any port in a storm... yada, yada, yada.

Next afternoon out with the tide to Allcroft Point Cove on Petral Channel (anchoring in 86 feet)and then finally last 51nm to Prince Rupert. Saw only one other boat from Prior Island to just outside PR with no civilization present on the shoreline. Will attempt to attach a couple photos.

I went to an electronics shop here and he is now working on the autopilot to see what can be done. At Prior Island I took it apart and hand dried everything without success - totally unrealiable for the last two legs and steering manually. He has now got the GPS talking to the laptop and he also corrected the problem of running it off the boat batteries so will give it a try on the next leg. Used it coming in on laptop battery during the fog and it will be nice to have the GPS input on it.

Price Rupert is a nice town of about 12,000. Fishing is the primary industry. Everyone seems very busy about town except the teenagers. Housing is modest. Many well cared for parks and yesterday was beautiful day here with everyone out and about. Fog this morning.

I am able to read VERY few emails while at these stops so please excuse. I will need a day to catch up on all of them. If autopilot repaired by tonight will depart soonest for Ketchikan, Alaska across Dixon Strait East for US customs.

Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

click on map to enlarge.

5 JUL 2004

Hello,
 
I arrived at Point McNeill today at 1300.  Since email from Naniamo I have stopped at Tribune Bay on Hornby Island where I spent a "Rock and Roll" evening thanks to the waters of the Strait of Georgia.  Then on to Quartz Bay on Cortez Island in the Desolation area --  always a peaceful stay.  Then on to Sierra Cove where I put up the sign on a big cedar tree before "attempting" to make it through Yaculta and dent Rapids.  Because I spent too much time taking photos I missed the slack time and came to a dead stop (actually started going backwards) and called it quits to wait for the next slack time at Big Bay Marina/Resort which has a great view.  From there to Blind Channel arriving at 2130 and then swapping sails from genoa to blade before dark. Up at 0430 to make slack tide at Green Point rapids and then Whirlpool Rapids before putting up the sails to traverse Sunderland Channel and into Johnstone Strait.  This was and easier sail than previous passages and I made such good time I ended up at a new stop, Port Neville while the current turned and the wind became a bit much.  I entered the main water there and canceled plans to continue on that night because I was just pooped.  That brings me to today when the notorious wind of Johnstone Strait failed to show and after two hours of 2 knots started up the diesel for the remainder of the day.
 
I will try to attach some photos but explanations will have to wait until later.  One will be of Sierra Cove for her namesake and one will be of me on the Forth of July at the tiller (not what most think of for the fourth).  Hoping others will give a clue why I love it so much up here -- the beauty never ends and photos just don't do it justice.
 
Overall sailing weather has been better than usual.  With sails across Strait of Juan de Fuca, Strait of Georgia where the traveller connection broke and the genoa furling jammed necessitating repairs on the spot, and Sunderland Channel into Johnstone Strait.  No rain until arriving here and it isn't much.
 
Next major leg is across Queen Charlotte Sound into northern BC where remoteness begins.

30 JUN 2004

Departed Bedwell Harbor at 0900 and it was one of those sails up, sails down, sails up, sails down kind of days.  Took a chance on wind and missed Dodd Narrows slack tide so dropped anchor in small cove off Ruxton Passage and had an early dinner, chicken salad -- not bad!  Arrived Nanaimo at 2145 and began looking into laptop computer problem.  Glad to see that it was just a power issue and not a broke machine. Finally got to bed at 0100.  Awakened by the morning takeof of a Dehavalen Beaver --just love those big recip engines.  My next life will be as a float-plane driver -- pure romance.

Messages:
Bob McCoy.  So, the computer won't run when the battery is dead (I don't know how that happened.)  Still no luck linking the GPS with the software but I finally realized that my GPS also has format settings -- still nothing so far.  Reading the instructions led me to a test of the COM and when it came up it was blank so something still amiss there.

Dawn.  Also forgot the eggs  help yourself. No photos this email.  Sending from the Nanaimo library and they don't have disk access.  Everyone here is getting ready for Canada Day tomorrow (like our July 4th)so shops closing early.  However, I will depart
at 0800 tomorrow if the weather looks OK.  Spent five hours today SCRUBBING the boat and she finally looks respectable.  Then I treated myself to a three "Looney" shower.  Facilities here at Nanaimo continue to just get better and better -- still one of my favorite stops and the folks here make an effort to please.

Next stop is Tribune Bay on Hornby Island -- great beach.  Then a small cove called Quartz Bay due east of Campbell River positioning for the Yakulta and Dent Rapids passage.

Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike      

28 JUN 04

Friday Harbor. Next stop Bedwell Harbor, BC. This computer email is not working as planned. My prepared 3.5 text is not being recognized by these machines so am adlibinging it. Plus, this morning my laptop would not start up.

Sprited crossing of Strait of Juan de Fuca with winds steady 12-14K and gust to 18. Most of the time above 6.2K with occasional 7.2K. New bottom paint does wonders. Some added surfing at mid-channel was a bonus. I will try to add some photos off this 3.5.

Messages:
Scott. Yes I got father's day gift. Thanks much. Will use when I return. Kiss the girls for me. I just attached my Works text -- p
lease advise if you could read it?

Dawn. Give Boots a hug for me if he ever comes out of hiding.

Buff. Mailed last of bills I was carrying. Will look at accounts at Nanaimo.

Friday Harbor is bautiful yesterday and today. A tourist town for sure but a very pleasant place to visit.

Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

25 JUN 04

Hello,
At Fleete Marine in Pt Townsend dong the bottom painting and due to leave tomorrow (Saturday).  Next stop Friday Harbor then Bendon Harbor for Canadian customs.

Dawn:  I forgot the fruits and vegtables in the refrig -- help
yourself.

Bob:  Working on the boat and have not tried the charts yet.

More later.  Not able to attach photos here.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike

FULL TRAVEL MAPS (three maps follow)

map below of Mike's travels through August 2, 2004. click on map to enlarge.
Red = going north. Blue = returning south.


         
map below of Mike's travels of Queen Charlotte Islands north to Alaska. click to enlarge.
         
 
below, another map of Vancouver Island. click to enlarge.