12
AUG 04 -- ARRIVAL HOME TO GIG HARBOR!
Last email
Friday Harbor 8/09/04.
Departed Friday Harbor 8/09 at 1500. Following wind lasted less
than an hour and then back to diesel for the rest of the leg.
Arrived at Admiralty Inlet early and against the ebbing tide which
made or slow going. Evaluated the options and decided to go for
Port Ludlow that evening. I do love being out on the water at
night when everything is clear -- the feeling is very different.
Used the computer charts to pass the reef area and enter Port Ludlow. Arrival
was at 2300 and it was DARK. Drove to the far side of the harbor and
anchored in 38 feet. Some of the boats already there stood
out very well while others were near invisible until nearly upon them. Even
on the NIGHT setting, the computer charts still too bright and negatively
affects transition back and forth from screen to eye vision, so
I used the entrance tarp to shield the computer.
Departed Port Ludlow about 0830 after refueling. A pretty
day and some light wind to make sailing available from Point-No-Point
for a few hours then back to diesel for the rest of the leg. Decided
to spend the night in Gig Harbor since the Tacoma Narrows tide
would be ebbing soon. Arrived at 1830 and the Tides Tavern
dock was packed so we ended up at the city dock. Went to
the Tides for a beer and dinner.
Gig Harbor. The clear morning saw a thick layer of fog move in
about 0800 and lift about 0930. We departed at 0945 and were
in and out of fog from just outside of Gig Harbor to the Carr Inlet
entrance. Landed at Murphy's dock at 1230. Tom was out back
building a swing.
At home, Boots came when I called him and meowed the rest of the day.
A shower was number one on my list. Boots's fur was
all over the house and had to be vacuumed. I unloaded one truck
load from the boat today and will go back for the heavy stuff tomorrow
morning while it is still cool -- it was HOT today. The rest
of the night was spent getting caught up on the bills.
Scott: Photos will follow tomorrow for posting on your website.
~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
9
AUG 04
Last
email sent from Port McNeill on 8/02. No email from Nanaimo due to late
arrival and Sunday Internet access nil.
Shaw Pt on 8/03 located on Sunderland Channel. Motored sailed
from Pt McNeill to Fanny Island where wind available and tried
to outrun rain--lost. First time there and very interesting place
-- I could picture a cabin on the point overlooking the bight.
Water very clear and deep with colorful starfish.
Quartz Bay on Sutil Channel on 8/04. 2200 arrival after traversing
rapids areas and killing some time at Shoal Bay waiting for
slack time. Always a pleasant quiet stay here. Arrival in
near blackout conditions using computer charts worked well. Occasional
log floating by keeps you awake. Rain that night.
Deep Bay located on Baynes Sound of Vancouver Island on 8/05 and 8/06.
Weather forecast not encouraging so departed Quartz with the strategy
of a sheltered anchorage for coming rain and wind. Motor
sailed all day from Quartz until Point Lazo where wind developed. Good
sailing for an hour or so then quits so back to diesel. Traversing
Lambert Channel a bit of a struggle against the tide and 27K wind on
the nose with ground speed down to 3K at times with wave action
coming off the Strait of Georgia. NOLHI and I both got a salt
bath. Deep Bay not one of my favorite places -- happy to
depart.
Nanaimo on 8/07 with 2130 arrival. Some good sailing from about
Chrome Island to Ballenas Islands when wind slacks and tide on the verge
of switching. All close hauled back and forth across track and
a beautiful day. Saturday night in Nanaimo saw many folks walking
about the waterfront on my arrival. A shower was my first priority
with very late dinner at the local waterfront bistro -- not good
but the local folk singers entertaining.
Friday Harbor on 8/08 after a hot day and dying wind just south of the
Dodd Narrows. When sailing, mostly downwind wing-on-wing.
2130 arrival and customs clearance with more questions than usual and
two trips back to the boat for details. While speaking to them
a wake hit the dock and NOLHI was slammed into it about five times with
waves pouring onto the dock -- no damage detected and happy I had
extra fenders deployed on that side.
Today. Expect to depart at 1500 with the tide and cross Strait
of Juan de Fuca. Anchor in either Port Townsend or hopefully
Port Ludlow. Expect to be home earliest as 8/10 late or then
8/11.
Scott: I will send photos of last legs when I get home.
Cheers,
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
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3
AUG 2004
This is
being sent from Port McNeill. A following email will be sent to
Scott with photos for the web site. (link to
photos; section dated Aug 3)
Prince Rupert 7/26 last email sent.
Spicer
Island
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Spicer
Island 7/27. Located on Ogden Channel at Principe Channel.
A great day of sailing by surprise. Wind was present as on as we
left Prince Rupert harbor and we sailed all the way with good speed;
some of everything: close haul, broadreach, and downwind. Computer
wouldn't work on arrival with a yellow AC light flashing but luckily
an easy entry in good weather. Later, removed and replaced battery
a couple times and it had 92% power left. Has not happened since
then and think it related to leaving it plugged in to boat power too
long without engine running. One fishing boat seen after leaving PR
vicinity.
Kooryet Bay 7/28. Located on Banks Island in Principe Channel.
A day just the opposite from yesterday with all motor sailing.
No other boats seen today other than the cruise ship that came by after
dark lit up like a city. Coolest thing about this place is a mountain
lake stream (big stream) that empties into the bay. Rowed dinghy
up into it and fish were jumping all over the place. Also, so
many eagles in one location. First ducks I have seen as well as geese.
On rowing out of the stream, a flight of five geese in "V"
formation and honking was just so cool but I couldn't get the camera
out fast enough. Very windy the next morning and had the
MOST difficult time ever pulling up the anchor against a 10-20K wind
-- put autopilot on auto heading, engine in slow speed, and then run
to the bow and pull all 18 feet up.
Smithers Cove 7/29. Located on Laredo Channel. Easy entry
to charming deep bowl with orange and purple starfish on the rock walls.
Had to anchor twice as first time too close to walls.
Storm Bay 7/30. Located on Seaforth Channel few miles from Bella
Bella. We literally sailed down Laredo channel under mainsail
alone above hull speed and up Meyers Narrows to Finlayson Channel and
Seaforth Channel. After dark arrival to an easy entry. Well
worth it to see a beautiful sunset and the most fantastic near
full moon rising I have ever seen -- is the moon bigger up north?
Goldstream
Harbour
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Goldstream
Harbour 7/31. Located on northern point of Calvert Island. Shaky
entry to this harbor with mainsail up in a blow, sun in my eyes, and
Douglas book coordinates that appeared all wrong against computer charts.
Once in the harbour anchor alone in recommended spot only to be awaken
by the depth sound alarm at 0555 with a visible UNCHARTED rock rising from
the 16 foot drop in tide that night. Race to the bow in my bare
feet and skivvies to pull in 20-30 feet of rode to get us away from
it. Douglas will hear about this one.
Hussar Point (Port Alexander) 8/01. Long day getting here.
Started early to drive down the Calvert Island coastline before crossing
Queen Charlotte Sound. Saw 1-2 whales just after leaving harbor.
Winds started rising just after entering the sound and carried us almost
to Pine Island. Mostly 8-12K before waning away at Pine Island
forcing us to motor sail the rest of the way. Swells continue
to take the starch out of NOLHI's performance to the tune of . 5 to
1.5 if the driving wind too light. Arrived late and anchor here
due to many already in Port Alexander. Used computer charts to
maneuver between rocks and kelp beds to a good anchor site. No
sign of the largest eagle I have ever seen on the way north.
Port McNeill 8/02. Day started with good sailing wind
up to 20K forcing me to reef mainsail for first time this trip.
Then winds quit just past Port Hardy and we motorsail in PM.
Rush to place with god email capability to find out today is a Canadian
holiday (BC Day). So will try to send this in the morning
before departing. Weather turned to this evening.
Next email will be Nanaimo at the earliest as I will be passing through
the back country rapids area before crossing Strait of Georgia.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
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Ketchikan, Alaska

Dundas Island (whale spouting off)
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27
July 2004
Departing
at 1000 after refueling. Heading south to Spicer Island. Group
off Ogden Channel to give flexibility on following day course -- following
the wind.
Cheers,
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
26
July 2004
I arrived
back at Prince Rupert today at 1730. Called AOL to get screenname back
online. I departed PR on 7/21 for Ketchikan. That night at Dundas Island.
Night of 7/22 at Alava Bay due to worsening shaft noise and reduced
speed. Nice place with Forest Service cabin in it but all anchoring
is deep. After spending four hours realigning shaft at Alava Bay arrived
Ketchikan on 7/23 at 1630 Alaska time. Ran into that Bob from California
again. More details later but problem seemed to take care of itself
-- like your toothache gets better when you visit the dentist.
Departed
Ketchikan on 7/25 for HOME. Night of 7/25 at Foggy Bay -- it would be
interesting going into that place IN THE FOG since everything looks
the same it is difficult to find the correct turn without GPS. NOLHI
ran well today as not enough wind to sail -- she is her old self again
-- maybe she just wants to go home.
I'm leaving
with the tide at 1000 tomorrow for someplace south, haven't decided
yet as I want to listen to weather first and find some wind. It would
be nice to sail Hecate Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound to Port Hardy
but unless I can find a crew 270 miles is a bit much in one jump but
would shave off a few days. My target for returning remains within
the 60 days (August 21) and I'll cut corners where I can. Next major
stop is Port McNeill with email.
Scott,
will send limited photos only to you for the web site to avoid another
AOL problem.
BOB: Computer
charts are great but the computer has a limited time (about 2 hours)
and dies even when connected to boat power -- very unhandy so I'm backing
up with Garmin GPS and turning cxomputer on only occationally to check
charts. Luckily, the boat will charge computer with engine running but
takes about 3 hours running.
Buff/Dawn:
Let the washer go and I'll take care of it when I get home. I have been
waiting for it to die and it just happened to be while I was gone. Best
put a sign on it that it is out of order so someone doesn't flood the
place.
Buff: Congrads
on the Puerto Rico thing. Let me know what the date is when you find
out.
Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
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Prince Rupert

Pillsbury Guest House
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22 July
2004
Autopilot
arrived at 1150 today. Afternoon spent installing the electrics, different
from Autohelm 1000. Departing immediately with 1715 tide with Dundas
Island as destination for tonight. Winds favorable now
but expected to increase over next couple days. ETA Ketchikan on 22
or 23 depending on weather and winds.
Cheers,
~ ~ _/)
~ ~ Mike
18
July 2004
Yesterday was Cow Bay Days here on Cow Bay in Prince Rupert. A small
town affair slanted toward the kids with balloons, horse carriage rides,
face painting, one of those air filled jumping toys, and the like. Lots
of folks milling around and everyone with smiles on their faces. Weather
was just beautiful with sunny skies and temperature around 70F.
The attached
photos (see photo page, photos marked 18JUL04)
are mostly of the area yesterday during the celibration. I believe the
only exceptions are the 55 meter (180 foot) yacht at the end of the
dock whose stern shows Georgetown, C.I. (Caymay Islands)as her home
port. Please note the helocopter parked on her stern. One of the crew
says that the first mate is the pilot. This means that she will also
have to haul JP4 fuel as well as her own diesel. Cow Bay Cafe, best
dining in city with only 10 inside tables. Pillbury Guest House (red
one), the first house built in town, and the city's Waterfront Park
and railway museum.
I assisted
the captain of "Fishes & Chicks" yesterday. He (Bob) and
I have been running into each other the last few stops. He has a new
Ocean Sport 30 (motor yacht) built on Orcus Island and on a shakedown
cruise to Alaska. It has two 310HP Volvo diesels so he travels pretty
fast when he gets going but somehow I have stayed ahead of him until
now. It seems the design weight distribution was exceeded a bit when
the change to larger engines and stern mounted RIB w/outboard added
about 1200 pounds to her stern sending the bilge thruhulls below the
waterline -- whenever he and friends stand on the stern deck it began
to flood the engine compartment. I was skinny enough to get into the
area cut the lines and add one way valves to the lines. More later.
~ ~ _/)
~ ~ Mike
17
July 2004
I
think the advertisement for FedEx says. "If it absolutely, positively
has to get there on time, ship it FedEx"; I found out yesterday afternoon
that doesn't apply in Canada. While it took obnly 24 hours for the autopilot
replacement to get to Vancouver, it will take another four days to get
to Prince Rupert. I spoke to the FedEx supervisor in Vancouver and it
seems that despite the fact that floatplanes are flying in here everyday
FedEx has their own "system" and they don't hand packages off
to anyone to deliver. That will make it a Tuesday delivery and I
will have spent a week here. Yes, I'm pissed! Wait till Tom Hanks ("Castaway")
hears about this!
I'll advise
when I have more to report. I took some more photos of Prince Rupert and
will forward those to you Scott at a later time today. I'll be spending
my time doing all those little jobs on the boat that have been delayed
for so long. Today is Cow Days here on Cow Bay (PR waterfront) and hopefully
there will be some interesting things to report.
~ ~ _/)
~ ~ Mike
15
JULY 2004
Prince Rupert technician unable to repair autopilot -- totally unreliable.
Ordered new Raymarine ST1000 this morning from sailnet.com and due to
arrive 24-48 hours by Fed Ex Intl delivery.
Will advise
on departure date.
~ ~ _/) ~
~ Mike
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Fitz
Hugh Sound

Meyers
Narrows

Principe
Channel
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14
July 2004
Prince Rupert
BC
Arrived 7/13
at 1600, including 1.5 hours through the fog outside PR. Last email sent
from Port McNeil on 7/06. Try to fill you in. Shearwater ISP would not
allow access to AOL and was last storp of any civilization. This being
sent from Prince Rupert library. Drizzle or rain every day since arriving
at Pt McNeil until today. Since Pt McNeil stops at Port Alexander then
across Queen Charlotte Sound to
Green Island
Anchorage on Fitz Hugh Sound (pictured top left). Then Shearwater
Marina (Bella Bella) for fuel, laundry, and shower. Then Meyers Narrows
(pictured middle left) and unsheduled stop at Prior Island when
autopilot broke and GPS lost satellite contact. After 45 minutes of no
reliable position, no autopilot, and constant rain all day reteated to
this island I later identified as Prior. It won't win any real estate
prizes but any port in a storm... yada, yada, yada.
Next afternoon
out with the tide to Allcroft Point Cove on Petral Channel (anchoring
in 86 feet)and then finally last 51nm to Prince Rupert. Saw only one other
boat from Prior Island to just outside PR with no civilization present
on the shoreline. Will attempt to attach a couple photos.
I went to
an electronics shop here and he is now working on the autopilot to see
what can be done. At Prior Island I took it apart and hand dried everything
without success - totally unrealiable for the last two legs and steering
manually. He has now got the GPS talking to the laptop and he also corrected
the problem of running it off the boat batteries so will give it a try
on the next leg. Used it coming in on laptop battery during the fog and
it will be nice to have the GPS input on it.
Price Rupert
is a nice town of about 12,000. Fishing is the primary industry. Everyone
seems very busy about town except the teenagers. Housing is modest. Many
well cared for parks and yesterday was beautiful day here with everyone
out and about. Fog this morning.
I am able
to read VERY few emails while at these stops so please excuse. I will
need a day to catch up on all of them. If autopilot repaired by tonight
will depart soonest for Ketchikan, Alaska across Dixon Strait East for
US customs.
Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
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click
on map to enlarge.
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5
JUL 2004
Hello,
I arrived at Point McNeill today at 1300. Since email from Naniamo
I have stopped at Tribune Bay on Hornby Island where I spent a "Rock
and Roll" evening thanks to the waters of the Strait of Georgia.
Then on to Quartz Bay on Cortez Island in the Desolation area --
always a peaceful stay. Then on to Sierra Cove where I put up the
sign on a big cedar tree before "attempting" to make it through
Yaculta and dent Rapids. Because I spent too much time taking photos
I missed the slack time and came to a dead stop (actually started going
backwards) and called it quits to wait for the next slack time at Big
Bay Marina/Resort which has a great view. From there to Blind Channel
arriving at 2130 and then swapping sails from genoa to blade before
dark. Up at 0430 to make slack tide at Green Point rapids and then Whirlpool Rapids
before putting up the sails to traverse Sunderland Channel and into Johnstone
Strait. This was and easier sail than previous passages and I made such
good time I ended up at a new stop, Port Neville while the current turned
and the wind became a bit much. I entered the main water there and canceled
plans to continue on that night because I was just pooped. That
brings me to today when the notorious wind of Johnstone Strait failed
to show and after two hours of 2 knots started up the diesel for
the remainder of the day.
I will try to attach some photos but explanations will have to wait until
later. One will be of Sierra Cove for her namesake and one will
be of me on the Forth of July at the tiller (not what most think of for
the fourth). Hoping others will give a clue why I love it so
much up here -- the beauty never ends and photos just don't do it justice.
Overall sailing weather has been better than usual. With sails across
Strait of Juan de Fuca, Strait of Georgia where the traveller connection
broke and the genoa furling jammed necessitating repairs on the spot, and
Sunderland Channel into Johnstone Strait. No rain until arriving
here and it isn't much.
Next major leg is across Queen Charlotte Sound into northern BC where
remoteness begins.
30
JUN 2004
Departed
Bedwell Harbor at 0900 and it was one of those sails up, sails down, sails
up, sails down kind of days. Took a chance on wind and missed Dodd
Narrows slack tide so dropped anchor in small cove off Ruxton Passage
and had an early dinner, chicken salad -- not bad! Arrived Nanaimo
at 2145 and began looking into laptop computer problem. Glad to
see that it was just a power issue and not a broke machine. Finally got
to bed at 0100. Awakened by the morning takeof of a Dehavalen Beaver
--just love those big recip engines. My next life will be as a float-plane
driver -- pure romance.
Messages:
Bob McCoy. So, the computer won't run when the battery is dead (I
don't know how that happened.) Still no luck linking the GPS with
the software but I finally realized that my GPS also has format settings
-- still nothing so far. Reading the instructions led me to a test
of the COM and when it came up it was blank so something still amiss there.
Dawn. Also
forgot the eggs help yourself. No photos this email. Sending
from the Nanaimo library and they don't have disk access. Everyone
here is getting ready for Canada Day tomorrow (like our July 4th)so shops
closing early. However, I will depart
at 0800 tomorrow if the weather looks OK. Spent five hours today
SCRUBBING the boat and she finally looks respectable. Then I treated
myself to a three "Looney" shower. Facilities here at
Nanaimo continue to just get better and better -- still one of my favorite
stops and the folks here make an effort to please.
Next stop
is Tribune Bay on Hornby Island -- great beach. Then a small cove
called Quartz Bay due east of Campbell River positioning for the Yakulta
and Dent Rapids passage.
Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
28
JUN 04
Friday Harbor.
Next stop Bedwell Harbor, BC. This computer email is not working as planned.
My prepared 3.5 text is not being recognized by these machines so am adlibinging
it. Plus, this morning my laptop would not start up.
Sprited
crossing of Strait of Juan de Fuca with winds steady 12-14K and gust to
18. Most of the time above 6.2K with occasional 7.2K. New bottom paint
does wonders. Some added surfing at mid-channel was a bonus. I will try
to add some photos off this 3.5.
Messages:
Scott. Yes I got father's day gift. Thanks much. Will use when I return.
Kiss the girls for me. I just attached my Works text -- please
advise if you could read it?
Dawn. Give
Boots a hug for me if he ever comes out of hiding.
Buff. Mailed
last of bills I was carrying. Will look at accounts at Nanaimo.
Friday Harbor
is bautiful yesterday and today. A tourist town for sure but a very pleasant
place to visit.
Cheers.
~ ~ _/) ~ ~ Mike
25
JUN 04
Hello,
At Fleete Marine in Pt Townsend dong the bottom painting and due to leave
tomorrow (Saturday). Next stop Friday Harbor then Bendon Harbor
for Canadian customs.
Dawn: I
forgot the fruits and vegtables in the refrig -- help
yourself.
Bob: Working
on the boat and have not tried the charts yet.
More later.
Not able to attach photos here.
~ ~ _/) ~
~ Mike
FULL
TRAVEL MAPS (three maps follow)
map
below of Mike's travels through August 2, 2004.
click on map to enlarge.
Red = going north. Blue = returning south.
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